Where Billy the Kid became a Legend
Published 8:01 am Thursday, May 31, 2018
- The Anderson-Freeman Visitor Center and Museum offers exhibits and a video.
Billy the Kid was once just “The Kid.”
Born William Henry McCarty Jr. in New York, as a young man he moved west where he became a cowhand, petty thief, and general hooligan.
Billy’s lasting reputation was made during the late 1870s in a lawless New Mexico town where competing commercial interests came into armed conflict.
At the time, Lincoln County, part of what was then New Mexico Territory, spread across 22,000 square miles with a lone sheriff to maintain peace among the farmers, ranchers and merchants.
The result was an isolated population that took care of its own interests.
Into this backwater stepped two enterprising Irish-Americans who established a commercial venture to supply beef to the U.S. Army and Native Americans, and trade goods to the populations.
As the area’s lone merchant and creditor, their establishment was able pay low prices to ranchers for their cattle that were then sold at high prices to the Army, Native Americans and the general population.
Entry of a competing group led by two ranchers and a wealthy emigrant soon led to several years of conflict that came to be called “The Lincoln County War.”
The cast of characters involved the merchants, a corrupt sheriff, troops from a nearby U.S. Army fort, territorial governor and Civil War general Lew Wallace (who was to author “Ben-Hur”), and numerous hired hands and gunslingers including Billy the Kid.
For his part in the conflict, Billy the Kid was sentenced in 1881 to hang. He was the only participant of the Lincoln County War convicted of a crime.
Taken to Lincoln for a May execution, Billy shot two guards and escaped to Fort Sumner where two-and-a-half months later he was shot and killed by Sheriff Pat Garrett.
Billy was 21 years old. Eight months following the killing, Garrett authored a book, “The Authentic Life of Billy the Kid,” that cemented Billy’s name in western lore.
The town of Lincoln remains little changed from the 1870s and 1880s when President Rutherford B. Hayes said it possessed “the deadliest street in America.”
Now a state historic site, New Mexico owns approximately half of the town’s buildings and manages the majority of historic structures, most of which are open to visitors.
We arrived in Lincoln in the late afternoon for a night at the Wortley Hotel.
The original hotel, a town fixture when Billy roamed its streets, burned in 1937. The current hotel was rebuilt on the original site and is operated as a bed and breakfast.
The Wortley has the look and feel of the old West and advertises that no guests have been gunned down in 135 years. A variety of animals including free-range chickens welcome guests.
Rising early the following morning, we enjoyed a peaceful stroll along the town’s only street before returning to the hotel for a breakfast of French toast.
Then it was off to the visitor center/museum to meet with historic site district manager Tim Roberts who led us on a guided tour of the town. Although raised in Pensacola, Fla., Tim’s knowledge of and interest in the town and its history is impressive.
The historic site encompasses much of the town including 17 structures, seven of which are open year-round. Two museums are open seasonally.
Historic buildings include a small store where Billy the Kid was incarcerated for 27 days, the 1874 store owned by the Irish-Americans who resented the new competition, the store started by the competing ranchers and the town’s first church.
Other structures include the building that once served as a saloon, community center and court and a round tower built to offer shelter for families under attack by the area’s Apaches.
We found Lincoln to be one of the most enjoyable stops during our New Mexico road trip.
Travelers should allow at least half a day to explore the town. If possible, join one of the guided tours that are generally offered daily and twice a day on weekends.
Boning up on the town’s history prior to a visit is time well spent.
David and Kay Scott are authors of “Complete Guide to the National Park Lodges” (Globe Pequot). Visit them at mypages.valdosta.edu/dlscott/Scott.html. View earlier columns at www.facebook.com/DavidKayScott. The Scotts live in Valdosta, Ga.
Getting there: Lincoln is approximately 30 miles northeast of Ruidoso. The nearest major airports are in El Paso and Albuquerque, each about a three-hour drive from Lincoln.
Hours: Open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Some buildings begin closing at 4:30 p.m. Closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving and Christmas Day.
Cost: $5 entrance fee. Children younger than 16 are free.
Lodging: The Worley Hotel offers seven relatively small but clean and comfortable rooms that include breakfast for $110 per night. The personable innkeepers, animals and atmosphere enhance a visit to the town. Visit www.wortleyhotel.com, or call (575) 653-4300.
Dining: Dinner at the hotel can be arranged with prior notice. Day visitors should bring a lunch.